The distance between St Maarten and St Barth’s is short and for this passage we had a weather forecast that favored actually sailing. Our buddy boat was exiting the lagoon on the 1st bridge of the day 8.30am and we planned to sail to a small island called Ile Forchue for a couple of nights before heading the final 5nm to St Barth’s.
The wind was a lovely 12-14knots and with a full set of sails we set off. Obviously not in the direction we wanted to go but with such lovely conditions we planned on some large tacks to take us at least part of the way. It’s was a wonderful sail, but the weather is a fickle master and after about an hour and a half she dropped slowly to around 7knots and our angles just fell away so it was impossible to make headway. Reluctantly we furled in the headsail and motor along to our island destination.
Upon arrival we were greeted by so many turtles in the crystal clear water of Ile Forchue. We tucked up as far as we could in the anchorage to escape any swell and then dived straight in to swim with the turtles and rays surrounding us. A glorious afternoon, chatting with our buddy boat and planning on getting out the dive gear the following day to clean the bottom once more and hunt for lobster.
This was not to be the case however as overnight the anchorage became untenable as the swell moved north (not forecast) and rolled into the bay rocking us back and forth uncomfortably that sleep was little and noisy as we creaked and groaned with every roll.
Getting up early the next morning and after a quick consultation with our buddy boat, we picked up the anchor and motored the short 5NM to St Barth’s and the main town of Gustavia. As we passed the top of the island you enter the outer harbour of Gustavia and before you is a field of superyachts and sailboats all with slides, jet skis and sun decks shining brightly (as the stainless steel had been polished daily). I’ve never seen so many at anchor. It was quite a sight to behold.
We motored into the inner harbour and after a little drive around found a spot in clear blue water just off the main channel. There was a little swell but nothing too uncomfortable and we jumped in the dinghy, heading to the harbour office to check into this new island.
Couple of forms later and a brief town overview from the lovely office staff we headed into town in search of a SIM card and something to eat. Finding a phone store by lucky accident we managed to get some data just before they closed at 12.30 (half day on Saturdays!) and a burger and beer. Our plan was to move back up the island to an anchorage our friends Patty and Gary had recommended and we hoped we may bump into them one last time before our cruising paths divided north and south for the foreseeable future.
The anchorage was busy but we found a spot in about 5m of water right in the centre, it’s mainly mooring buoys but all were taken when we first arrived. However just before I set the anchor bridle a few boats left and we spotted a mooring just in front of our friends and made the decision to go pick it up. Once settled Patty swam over to say hi and invite us to join them for dinner that evening.
It was another lovely evening, meeting new people (they had family onboard), discussing future plans and setting the world to rights!! Along with a few beverages and some delicious food. It will be some time before we see them again, we’re heading to the UK and they are heading into the Pacific but we’ll keep in touch and follow along as our adventures continue.
The next day Alicia and Doug arrived on Sail La Vie and we spent the next week, swimming, snorkelling and enjoying the beautiful Columbier Bay. One evening we went to shore for a later afternoon beach bbq, watching the sunset and relaxing in the warm waters. There was an abundance of turtles and we took the opportunity to clean off any new growth on the hull.
From Columbier you can walk a trail to the main road and get a taxi into town or hire a car, our friends had hired a car and had left their dinghy tied up on the beach just like a lot of people had been doing. On this particular afternoon though a pair of young’ish French guys seems to take a fancy to their dinghy, we watched at first as they sat on the tubes, before they appear to try and start the outboard. Ross jumped into our dinghy and short off, as I watched from the boat and took photos. At the appearance of a dinghy heading towards them with some pace, and the not unformidable sight of Ross barrelling towards them they walked off a few meters and sat down.
Incredulously when Ross asked them what they were doing, they said nothing they thought they just might take it for a ride round the bay!!! Erm NO! And then with a smile asked Ross if he’d take them for a ride round in our dinghy. Relatively politely, Ross declined and said they should leave other people's property alone, we’d be watching and would call the Police if they tried to start the engine or take the dinghy again. They shrugged it off and continued to play football up and down the beach for the remainder of the day.
I’d texted our friends to explain what had happened, luckily when they got back a short time later no damage had been done when they tried to start the engine out of the water. The guys were still on the beach but apparently oblivious to how inappropriate their actions had been.
Ross and I wanted to explore the main town of Gustavia before we moved on so planned a few days back with all the superyachts before we checked out. As a French island the patisserie and bread was amazing and we were spoiled by the danishes and coffee. The town itself is filled with designer labels and boutiques all with huge price tags and the glamorous occupants of the superyachts. Obviously we fit in easily!!, with our sun faded shorts and waterproof backpacks, but we did grab a bargain of new deck shoes for Ross as his crocs and flip flops had recently disintegrated.
Checking out was quick and painless and considering how expensive the island is our harbour fees were cheap at €59, for the two weeks’ish we stayed. The next day we planned to make the jump to St Kitts and hopefully a good sail.
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