The journey from DR to Puerto Rico, was to take us approx 48 hours across a potentially hazardous piece of water called the Mona Passage. Most sailors in this area know of its dangers and planning a crossing takes patience for the right weather window and not cutting the corner to soon. It had been a topic of discussion throughout the final months in Luperon and with guidance confirming our plans from Chris Parker’s weather routing service we set off early morning for the two night crossing.
Leaving Luperon Harbour wasn’t without its dangers either, we’d touched two of the sand bank when we’d entered due some inaccurate local advice, so it wasn’t without trepidation that we dropped our mooring lines and headed east. The wind was light so it was likely to be a motor sail at best, but this was a preferred scenario than slamming into wind and waves.
The first day and night were uneventful, we spotted pots and FADS (fish attraction devices) all along the DR costs which in daylight where pretty easy to avoid. Our buddy boat had had a few issues upon departure but was now running smoothly and we were about 0.5NM apart and checking in on our chosen radio channel at regular points.
The weather had been as we had expected for the most part, but the seastate was lumpy and getting lumpier as we drew closer to the Hourglass Shoal and Mona Passage, bouncing us all over in the messy seastate, this was when our engine gave its first splutter of discontent. Over the next 30 minutes she coughed and spluttered several more times before finally stopping altogether. Luckily there was some wind, not in the direction that helped us reach our destination but we threw out the sails quickly, radioed our buddy boat who had noticed our sudden change in direction and sail plan and whilst I helmed Ross got downstairs and started to diagnose our issues.
After a few moment of discussion, some tests and a radio chat with our buddy boat on symptoms to see if we’d missed any further checks we could do, Ross made the call that we’d likely got dirty fuel in the tank that because we were being thrown around by the waves was getting churned up and blocking the intake hose. Taking one of our spare 25 Litre jerry cans he proceeded to disconnect the fuel tank and redirect the engines lines to draw directly from the jerry can, including rerouting the return lines back into the can. What felt like hours later but in truth was less than an hour since the engine stopped, she roared back to life and we pointed the boat back towards Puerto Rico and our destination.
Our buddy boat, stuck with us throughout, which was a welcome sight for me at the helm helpless to assist Ross (the autopilot having none of it in the swell) and as night fell we had made it to the west coast of Puerto Rico. Travelling along the coastline in relative calm waters as the island provided some much needed shelter from the swell, waves and wind. Arriving at our destination, Puerto Real Marina around 3am, after weaving our way through the reef system, thankfully accurately depicted on the Navionics and the ChartPlotter.
Too early to enter the marina we dropped the anchor in the bay, went to sleep in the salon as our cabin was in complete disarray with the external fuel tanks, strong smell of diesal and various tools and gear taking priority over our cabin. We didn’t sleep for long to be honest, and by 7.30am we had radioed the Marina for our berth assignment and by 8.30am we were on the dock. We had lots to do, including properly trying to fix the fuel issues and get everything back in order. Not to mention this was a new country so we had to check in to the US, using our newly acquired US Visa. The check in process in actuality was simple, we logged our arrival on the CBP Roam app and waited for a video call or update to confirm our acceptance or if they wanted to see us directly. The marina staff were super helpful, the receptionist even phoned the CBP office to confirm they had received our notification of arrival.
Our initial paperwork submission in progress we went back to the boat and Ross set about the fuel tank with our fuel polishing kit. We ran the fuel tanks through twice, changing fuel filters as we went to check for gunk, not that any was showing up, and trying to clear out any blockage in the lines. By 3pm we had the cabin back in order and the engine running once again, however in the flat calm of the marina this wouldn’t be her test, our next passage would be the real test as once again we’d be heading east and likely motoring or motor sailing at best.
In need of sustenance and a beverage we went to the Marina bar, to meet our buddy boat and still not having recieved our confirmation from US Customs and Immigration we checked back into the office to see if they could help. Once again the receptionist made a quick phone call and came back swiftly to say all was good and Border Patrol would be at the Marina in the next hour to see us. We double checked if we could stay in the bar for our food or if we needed to return to wait at Blue Mist, to be told not to worry enjoy our lunch they’d find us when they arrived.
About an hour later two lovely ladies from Border Patrol arrived and we met them in the car park for a quick 10 minute conversation and for our Passports to be stamped. It was bizarre to say the least but one of the best and most friendly check ins we've ever had. We were now cleared in and ready to explore PR and then onto the USVI’s.
Having used up quite a few fuel filters on the journey and eager to explore, we hired a car from the Marina the following day and set off to find the nearest chandleries for the parts we needed to replace. Our friends were also in need of a new anchor chain, so with various addresses in hand we set off on our technical shopping trip. It was a pretty successful day, we managed to find new filters and the chain our friends needed, so armed with our purchases (including some groceries) we went back to the Marina. We had only initially planned to stay a few nights, but had been invited to the berth holders christmas bbq meaning we could also finish some boat work and wait for the better weather for our next passage.
Our next hop was around the south west corner and long to an anchorage called Gilligans Island. We set off early morning, Ross and I with fingers crossed that the engine and fuel issues were resolved and motored in the calm water to the south east corner.
As we rounded the headland the swell picked up (nothing like the Mona Passage however) and we listened to the engine as we bounced along waiting for the sputter. With much relief we entered through the reef of Gilligans Island, following our Buddy Boat who had a much shallower keel and was calling out depths on the radio for us.
We were the only two boats in the anchorage for the few days we spent their, only seeing the occasional kayaker or boat from the resort that was nesseled in the bay to the west of the anchorage. Ross and I took the dinghy and snorkel gear for a reconnaissance of the resort, but it was deathly quiet and the dock wasn’t appealing to tie up to.
The following day we drift snorkelled through the mangroves at Gilligans Island and watched in fascination the large Iguana, camouflaged quite beautifully against the foliage. It’s worth mentioning the Iguana was only in the bushes as some idiot resort teenager had grabbed it from the islands interior, much to our disgust, and then proceeded to get scratched up as the Iguana protested quite violently to the manhandling. He wasn’t our favourite person to of met in our time cruising and whilst glad he was not severely injured I hope he learns a lesson about leaving wildlife well along. Take a photo sure but don’t touch.
Our next stop was Salinas, where I was hoping to spot the much talked about but very shy manatees that supposedly are all over the south coast of PR. This would also be our base for a trip into the capital city San Juan and an opportunity to clean the fuel tank once more as whilst the engine didn’t fail, she definitely had a few hiccups and splutters on route.
Our day trip to San Juan was wonderful, the city is beautiful and we took advantage of the free (tip based) walking tours you can find on GuruWalk. Our guide was a fantastic older gentleman who you could tell genuinely loved his country and wanted to share it with us. The fortified city is stunning, meandering the streets and walls learning the history and passion of the Puerto Rican people was amazing, a a fantastic day was had by all.
We had the car for two days and the following day we took the opportunity to drive back west to the city of Ponce. This was for a couple of reasons, someone had recommended the Rum and House tour at Museo Castillo Serrallés and Alicia was desperate for her favourite fast food (she had talked about it religiously for months) Chick-Fil-A.
The house tour was ok, the view from the hill top was amazing and the cocktail at the bar at the foot of the Cross shaped building, which turned out to be a look out from days gone by for ships coming to harbour. The lookout would raise different coloured flags to show the town and dock workers what ships where arriving, Salt, Spice etc so everyone new who had to go to work or not on a given day.
With regards to the Chick-Fil-A, it was pretty nice, excellent waffle fries, a very good MacNCheese side and a spicy chicken burger that was better than a KFC.. I may also now be a fan!!
Still waiting on a weather window we were pleasantly surprised to learn that we’d be in Salinas for the annual Christmas boat parade, this was talked about with much hype and it didn’t disappoint. We’d seen boats in the marina and mooring slowly getting decked out for days but it wasn’t until darkness fell and the harbour was alight with lights, music, blow up Santas and Snowman for a parade that I have to say was one of the highlights of our entire trip so far. Over 100 boats paraded out into the bay and then back through the boats for a couple of hours, their was music, fireworks and some interesting driving, but a fantastic evening that lasted well into the early hours.
The next day you could still see a few boats coming back into harbour, those who’d obviously anchored out to enjoy the parade and a few sherries. Ross and I, in the hunt for the still elusive manatees took the dinghy out for a tour around the harbour and mangroves but alas it was not meant to be once more.
Our final stop on mainland PR was a bay near the town of Pastillas, this would be our holding place until a weather window to cross to Culebra presented itself. We arrived on a Sunday when the small bay was alive with weekend tourist and locals, but come Monday morning it was like a ghost town and nothing was open. The anchorage was rolly due to the swell wrapping around the headline we were behind and the snorkelling was murky as the waters were cloudy to say the least.
It only redeeming factors where the amazing pelicans which I can watch for hours, and the one bar we found open which did amazing fish tacos and the owner gave us a ride back to the dinghy’s with our groceries.
We stayed here for quite a few days waiting on weather and we’re happy to finally move one to Island of Culebra about 30NM east. It was a pretty uneventful motor, Ross and I on high alert, listening to every sound the engine made as we motor sailed east. Leaving at first light we dropped hook in Culebra mid afternoon and had headed to the dinghy Dock bar for dinner and drink to celebrate our arrival.
This was a big relief for Ross and I as we had guests arriving on the BVI for Xmas and time was quickly passing by. Many of our friends who had not been ready to leave Luperon when we did were still stuck their as the weather on the north side of the islands had been pretty rough since we crossed the Mona Passage and very few people had been travelling east.
Culebra was a quiet and beautiful island, the little town buy the anchorage busy but chilled out. In much need of a laundry this was one of Alisha and I's first activities as we set off one morning across the bay hoping Google was accurate to a self service laundry on the opposite side of town. Mission accomplished, we looked to hire car or in this island's case golf buggies and made a plan to explore the island the next day.
I have to say being sat backwards on a golf buggies as you drive up hill and round corners at what feels like breakneck speed is not my favourite way to travel but we did get to see a lot of the island. Firstly we headed to Zoni Beach for a view over to the tiny island of Culibrita which we hoped to make a stop at, watching the boats bounce about in the swell didn’t make it too appealing and the surf on the beach was pretty rough. Next we headed to Flamenco Beach famous for its golden sand and beautiful reef for snorkelling hoping we would be shelter from the weather but the swell made it impossible to snorkel, so we spent out time relaxing on the gorgeous sand and taking a walk to the point to see the old tanks that used to be used for target practice and where now home to seabirds and pelican diving and catching fish in the shallows.
Lastly we crossed over to the east side to Tamarindo Bay, another snorkelling spot but the water was all churned up from the swell, so even though it was calm the visibility was abysmal we did spot a eagle ray and turtle but I think that was more that they didn’t see us before we spotted them in that gloom than anything else.
It was still a fun day out, finished by tacos and cocktails before Doug had the not so fun task of return the buggy the next morning in the pouring rain and squall… sorry Doug!
This was to be where our Buddy Boat and Blue Mist where to separate, we were heading on to the USVIs and then BVIs for Xmas and them back to mainland PR and a marina to store the boat whilst they went back to the US and Canada to see family. It was sad to say farewell, but we’d hope to meet again in the New Year.
The next morning we headed east once more whilst Sail La Vie, headed west. Both of us motor sailing as the wind was gusty and all over the place. Our aim was to motor as quickly as possible across the short gap between the island to seek shelter from the swell by St Thomas.
Once sheltered it wasn’t long before we saw the entrance to Charlotte Amelie Harbour, full of cruise ships and our anchorage for the next few days.
The town is a pretty straight forward cruise ship orientated area, you can find all you could possibly wants as a tourist in the multitude of duty free outlets. A short walk a few streets back from the main harbour front and then you’ll find the local supermarkets, laundry and less frantic area which were exactly what we needed.
We had about 10 days before our friends arrived in the BVIs so this wasn’t to be a long stay just enough to complete laundry, a few provisions and we moved to our last USVI anchorage at Christmas Cove. This cove is home to a Pizza boat which we were told about by many cruisers, we anchored in pretty deep water to the north of the bay and placed an order for that evening.
Collecting it by dinghy was a bit of an adventure as their we're several Speed boat day charted tired along side and me in our little Mini Mist got a bit squashed and pushed about. Two large and expensive pizza later however we were ready for the next day and early start to the British Virgin Islands.
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